Porcupine Game to druga w kolejności z 7 zabaw. Polega na przestawianiu konia za pomocą stałego nacisku fizycznego.
Konie z natury wyposażone są w odruch przeciwstawiania, który jest ich strategią przetrwania. Jeśli zdarzyło się, że drapieżnik złapał uciekającego konia, uskoczenie w przeciwną stronę skończyłoby się najprawdopodobniej wyrwaniem dużej części ciała ofiary, ponieważ szczęki pozostają zaciśnięte. Dlatego też koń zamiast uciekać, naciera na przeciwnika, próbując wytrącić go z równowagi i zmusić do otworzenia pyska. Strategia ta jest bardzo skuteczna, dlatego zapisała się niezwykle silnie w końskim umyśle.
Niestety w dzisiejszym świecie to, co było niezbędne do przetrwania, staje się przeszkadzające, a nawet niebezpieczne. Wystarczy sobie wyobrazić że przywiązany koń się czegoś przestraszy. Będzie chciał uciec, lub co najmniej odbiec parę kroków, poruszyć się, aby zobaczyć co się dzieje. Tymczasem trzymająca go lina na to nie pozwala i ciągnie konia coraz bardziej. Jego przerażenie rośnie, a spanikowany koń reaguje instynktownie, czyli napiera jeszcze bardziej. To rodzi bardzo niebezpieczne sytuacje, w których koń może poważnie uszkodzić siebie i innych w otoczeniu. Podobnie, jeśli zdarzy się że koń w nerwach przygniecie nas do ściany, naszą formą obrony będzie odpychanie zwierzęcia z całej siły. Jednak zgodnie z naturą koń na nacisk odpowiada coraz silniejszym napieraniem.
Całe szczęście takim sytuacjom można zapobiec. Wystarczy porządnie i bardzo często bawić się z koniem w Porcupine Game.
Zabawa ta ma proste zasady- stały nacisk, częścią naszego ciała, bądź przedmiotem, podzielony na cztery fazy trwające standardowo 3s, każda jest mocniejsza od poprzedniej. Zachowujemy się jak słupek w płocie- naciskamy nieugięcie, aż do prawidłowej odpowiedzi konia, ale tak samo jak płot- jeśli koń się odsunie, my pozostajemy na miejscu. Dzięki temu zwierzak dostaje natychmiastowe potwierdzenia słuszności swojego działania i nagrodę.
Zaczynamy, dając znać koniowi że o coś będziemy go prosić, głaszcząc miejsce, w którym będziemy działać. Skupiamy całą naszą energię w tym punkcie, wyobrażając sobie, że wystarczy wbić w nie wzrok, a koń się usunie (to naprawdę działa!). Rozkładamy palce i bardzo delikatnie przykładamy do konia, tak, by lekko dotykać jego sierści. Przytrzymujemy 3 sekundy, (na początku, kiedy koń dopiero zaczyna się w to bawić z ludźmi, można ten czas nieco wydłużyć) bacznie obserwując czy zaczyna on myśleć o właściwej reakcji. Jeśli tylko zacznie przesuwać ciężar ciała we właściwą stronę, albo wręcz dopiero o tym myśleć, natychmiast zwalniamy nacisk i głaszczemy, chwalimy na wszelakie sposoby, po czym dajemy tyle czasu, ile potrzebuje, aby wszystko sobie dobrze poukładać. Kiedy koń myśli, intensywnie mruga i szybciej oddycha, natomiast po wyciągnięciu wniosków przeżuwa. Jeśli przeżuje, możemy bawić się dalej.
Najprawdopodobniej jednak nasz partner nic sobie nie zrobi z delikatnego dotknięcia. W takiej sytuacji trzymając palce w tej samej pozycji, zwiększamy nacisk, tym razem tak, by dotknąć skóry. Po trzech sekundach sięgamy do mięśni, po kolejnych trzech do kości. Nazwy te są umowne i służą lepszemy uzmysłowieniu sobie jaka to ma być siła. Inne nazwy to: mucha, komar, kos, orzeł. Czwarta faza musi być taka, żeby koń zareagował. Nie ma innej opcji. Przy wyjątkowo topornych osobnikach polecane jest nawet użycie ostrego przedmiotu (oczywiście nie takiego, który zrani konia, dobry będzie kamień z ostrymi krawędziami) którego należy użyć, jeśli wkładamy już całą naszą siłę w fazę czwartą, a koń nic sobie z tego nie robi. Faza czwarta ma boleć. Tak jak boli kopnięcie innego konia. To tylko chwila, a szybko nauczy się jej unikać, reagując szybciej. Kluczem jest tu absolutnie zawsze stosowanie ich po kolei, każdą przez odpowiedni czas. Nie wolno nagle wskoczyć na fazę drugą czy trzecią bez ostrzeżenia. To nie fair.
Używając Porcupine Game można przestawiać konia na wszelkie możliwe sposoby. Jego przód, tył, głowę, szyję, nos, nogi, do przodu, do tyłu, na boki, w górę, w dół, położyć go, działać na każdą część ciała we wszystkich kierunkach. Podczas jazdy również używamy tej zabawy, poruszając nogami czy kantarem, dlatego niezwykle ważne jest wypracowanie solidnych podstaw na ziemi.
Oprócz tego Porcupine jest świetne do ustalenia naszej pozycji w stadzie. Ten, kto się więcej rusza, ten jest niżej. Tak samo jak ten, który pierwszy ustąpi. Ten, który przestawia innych. Konie bardzo dużo bawią się w tę grę. Dlatego łatwo im będzie przenieść to na relację z człowiekiem.
Bawcie się jak najwięcej. Uruchomcie wyobraźnię, ćwiczcie, doskonalcie to co macie. Rozwijajcie wasz język, waszą relację, a dojdziecie do niesamowitych rzeczy. Gwarantuję.
piątek, 31 marca 2017
niedziela, 5 marca 2017
Friendly Game
In Friendly Game we convince the horse everything aroun isn't dangerous even if in it's eyes may seem so. That's the first and most important game in Parelli Natural Horsemanship. We always start with it and do it in breaks between others.
First of all we need to prove the horse our intentions are completely friendly. We want horse to trust us and let touch it's whole body. Every area horse protects tells us something about its skepticism to us.
Starting from places where they accept us we touch horse going a little further every time. We leave for a while his comfort zone and go back soon. This way horse knows what's gonna happen next and stay calm. We need to work slowly not to make horse feel in danger. Some parts of their bodies are very vulnerable.
We come close to the horse relaxed, full od friendly energy, like we come to a good friend. No sneaking, we're not hunting. If the horse may get scared it's good to make a little bend, not a straight line. This way horse won't feel like a prey during hunting 'cause no predator would waiste time and energy moving side to side instead choosing the shortest way. It would be stupid, the prey would probably see what's going on and escape.
Of course we approach from the front and make sure the horse knows we're coming. If we have doubts let's do something to catch their attention- a loud sound or big movement should work.
When we're close enough we pull out our hand and let horse smell it. We offer it with the top, fingers relaxed not clenched. There should be no tense in our body, this would be a clear signal for horse to be careful. If horse allows us we can stroke his nose and then start becoming friends with this body starting from shoulders. Gently touch the horse, watching carefully their reactions. We look for relaxation signs- loosening muscles, lowering head, snorting, yawning, unweighting hind leg. Chewing means the horse's just understood something, blinking and breathing fast means it's thinking right now.
While we play every time we get the proper response from horse (here simply calmness) we release. It's important to do it in the very moment of right response. After three seconds horse may forget what it was about. We stand still, no pression, one leg relaxed and head a bit lowered head, not looking at the horse at all. Give them time to think over what happened. If they sort it in their head they chew. Always wait for chewing, only then you can start doing something. It may take a second or an hour but we have to take the time it takes, so it takes less time.
There are two situations when waiting for chewing has no sense- when something dissipate horse and they loose focus eg. cantering herd or when exercise is so perfectly known there is nothing new to think about. If it is like that it means we're going too slow and horse gets bored. We should move to the next level.
After chewing we play again, first in the same place, then we go further. If we start with a new thing work ot once with only one zone of the horse. First shoulders and a bit of back if the horse's calm a reward- short break, time to think, then shoulders again for a while and something new- rest of back, neck of tummy. Give them time. This way eberything goes easier and faster than in rush.
It's very important to play on both sides of horse. Their mind doesn't connect image from eyes so a thing seen from the left may be completely different from right. And it may become scary even though it wasn't before.
When our partner accepts our touch we start Friendly with our equipment. Halters, ropes, carrot stick. Horse can't be afraid of any of these when we start playing other games.
First let them smell, look at it from a safe distance, if it's possible to explore a little with mouth. What we do next depends on what we play with. There is one rule- approach and retreat. Come closer, go away. This way comfort zone becomes bigger.
Constant rhythm, relaxation, waiting for horse to calm down.
Usually we wave that thing in a distance first, to let the horse see it and not make them feel hemmed. If we're playing with carrot stick we start from rhythmic hitting the ground with savvy string from both sides.
Begin from the front of horse but not straight in front of their nose because it they would get scared that's where they're gonna run. Then we move to the sides.
When horse accepts stick with a string flying all around we start touching them with stick, again starting from shoulders and moving everywhere then. Practise it with both stick and string.
The more advanced we get, the more difficult things we bring to play. It never ends, the more Friendly Game we do the more barave and happy our horse is. Turn on your creativity- we can use everything what appears in our minds. Bags, sheets, ropes, balloons, umbrellas, rattles, balls, styrofoam, toys, hula hoops, jumping ropes, jackets, all things used in barn- poles, obstacles, tires, bollards, saddles, blankets, buckets, barrows, barrels... Possibilities never ends!
Just remember if horse is scared and tryes to defend themself really bad give them as much time as they need, be carefull with pression and stress not to go too far. Give the horse loose rope, let htem move as much as they need. Stand still, extra relaxed, showing horse that's nothing scary. Just don't let tke horse walk on you and keep their hinds away. Driving hinds away may help 'cause when a horse crosses their hind legs they get calmer. It works so because a wild horse after running away turns back to see if it's still in danger and most of the times isn't so can calm down.
Walking around is also good- horse can see the thing from all sides and at the same time follows the leader- someone they can trust. 'He's not scared so I don't have too' that's what a horse think. You can also walk with horse behind and the thing in hands. First it's close to us and nothing happens, second things that run away stimulate horse's curiosity and make them follow to check what's that. Curiosity is a very strong and desired quality in a horse. Thanks to it it's easier to defeat fear. By walking away with new thing we prove the horse it's not a predator, not dangerous and with a lower hierarchy status.
Friendly Game is a very important game. It allows to change a naturally shy and skeptical to everything new horse to a brave, confident, calm and trusting one. It'll be easier to focus on tasks we give them. Also our leader position is strenghten here.
Frendly Game is full of benefits and worth playing as often as possible :)
First of all we need to prove the horse our intentions are completely friendly. We want horse to trust us and let touch it's whole body. Every area horse protects tells us something about its skepticism to us.
Starting from places where they accept us we touch horse going a little further every time. We leave for a while his comfort zone and go back soon. This way horse knows what's gonna happen next and stay calm. We need to work slowly not to make horse feel in danger. Some parts of their bodies are very vulnerable.
We come close to the horse relaxed, full od friendly energy, like we come to a good friend. No sneaking, we're not hunting. If the horse may get scared it's good to make a little bend, not a straight line. This way horse won't feel like a prey during hunting 'cause no predator would waiste time and energy moving side to side instead choosing the shortest way. It would be stupid, the prey would probably see what's going on and escape.
Of course we approach from the front and make sure the horse knows we're coming. If we have doubts let's do something to catch their attention- a loud sound or big movement should work.
When we're close enough we pull out our hand and let horse smell it. We offer it with the top, fingers relaxed not clenched. There should be no tense in our body, this would be a clear signal for horse to be careful. If horse allows us we can stroke his nose and then start becoming friends with this body starting from shoulders. Gently touch the horse, watching carefully their reactions. We look for relaxation signs- loosening muscles, lowering head, snorting, yawning, unweighting hind leg. Chewing means the horse's just understood something, blinking and breathing fast means it's thinking right now.
While we play every time we get the proper response from horse (here simply calmness) we release. It's important to do it in the very moment of right response. After three seconds horse may forget what it was about. We stand still, no pression, one leg relaxed and head a bit lowered head, not looking at the horse at all. Give them time to think over what happened. If they sort it in their head they chew. Always wait for chewing, only then you can start doing something. It may take a second or an hour but we have to take the time it takes, so it takes less time.
There are two situations when waiting for chewing has no sense- when something dissipate horse and they loose focus eg. cantering herd or when exercise is so perfectly known there is nothing new to think about. If it is like that it means we're going too slow and horse gets bored. We should move to the next level.
After chewing we play again, first in the same place, then we go further. If we start with a new thing work ot once with only one zone of the horse. First shoulders and a bit of back if the horse's calm a reward- short break, time to think, then shoulders again for a while and something new- rest of back, neck of tummy. Give them time. This way eberything goes easier and faster than in rush.
It's very important to play on both sides of horse. Their mind doesn't connect image from eyes so a thing seen from the left may be completely different from right. And it may become scary even though it wasn't before.
When our partner accepts our touch we start Friendly with our equipment. Halters, ropes, carrot stick. Horse can't be afraid of any of these when we start playing other games.
First let them smell, look at it from a safe distance, if it's possible to explore a little with mouth. What we do next depends on what we play with. There is one rule- approach and retreat. Come closer, go away. This way comfort zone becomes bigger.
Constant rhythm, relaxation, waiting for horse to calm down.
Usually we wave that thing in a distance first, to let the horse see it and not make them feel hemmed. If we're playing with carrot stick we start from rhythmic hitting the ground with savvy string from both sides.
Begin from the front of horse but not straight in front of their nose because it they would get scared that's where they're gonna run. Then we move to the sides.
When horse accepts stick with a string flying all around we start touching them with stick, again starting from shoulders and moving everywhere then. Practise it with both stick and string.
The more advanced we get, the more difficult things we bring to play. It never ends, the more Friendly Game we do the more barave and happy our horse is. Turn on your creativity- we can use everything what appears in our minds. Bags, sheets, ropes, balloons, umbrellas, rattles, balls, styrofoam, toys, hula hoops, jumping ropes, jackets, all things used in barn- poles, obstacles, tires, bollards, saddles, blankets, buckets, barrows, barrels... Possibilities never ends!
Just remember if horse is scared and tryes to defend themself really bad give them as much time as they need, be carefull with pression and stress not to go too far. Give the horse loose rope, let htem move as much as they need. Stand still, extra relaxed, showing horse that's nothing scary. Just don't let tke horse walk on you and keep their hinds away. Driving hinds away may help 'cause when a horse crosses their hind legs they get calmer. It works so because a wild horse after running away turns back to see if it's still in danger and most of the times isn't so can calm down.
Walking around is also good- horse can see the thing from all sides and at the same time follows the leader- someone they can trust. 'He's not scared so I don't have too' that's what a horse think. You can also walk with horse behind and the thing in hands. First it's close to us and nothing happens, second things that run away stimulate horse's curiosity and make them follow to check what's that. Curiosity is a very strong and desired quality in a horse. Thanks to it it's easier to defeat fear. By walking away with new thing we prove the horse it's not a predator, not dangerous and with a lower hierarchy status.
Friendly Game is a very important game. It allows to change a naturally shy and skeptical to everything new horse to a brave, confident, calm and trusting one. It'll be easier to focus on tasks we give them. Also our leader position is strenghten here.
Frendly Game is full of benefits and worth playing as often as possible :)
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